The water-repellent properties of leather shoes are lost after several weeks of wearing them. And with the onset of slushy weather, this can cause colds, since the legs need dryness and warmth. Therefore, you need to know how to treat shoes so that they do not get wet, and how to make them waterproof even in the wettest weather.

To do this, there are many factory and folk remedies that very effectively cope with this task.

Why do shoes get wet

Shoes can leak for the following reasons:

Sole defects and repair

Many are interested in the question of what to do if the shoes get wet. When shoes leak, the first thing to check is the sole, as often the cause of wet feet is associated with damage or poor quality. If the sole has defects or poor quality, then in wet weather it is better not to risk your health by wearing such shoes for a walk. It is necessary to carefully examine it, identify defects and take the following measures:

In order not to suffer in the future with the question of how to protect shoes from getting wet, carefully check the quality of the sole and seams when buying.

Suede and leather care

Poor-quality leather allows moisture to pass through quite quickly, so figure out how to soak your shoes from getting wet so that they do not wear out and your feet are dry.

Leather

Shoe care can be carried out using special water-repellent compounds for any materials. There are plenty of these funds on the market, and it will be easiest to use them. Impregnation in the form of a spray, a special cream or wax is suitable for the skin. Keep in mind that the emulsion cream will not be able to protect against moisture, so you need to choose an organic product with a high content of oils, wax and fat.

You can use folk remedies that will protect your leather shoes from getting wet.

Instead of a cream for treating skin and seams, castor oil is used.

You can also prepare special mixtures:

• Recipe #1

Turpentine - ½ tbsp. l.

Fish oil - 4 tsp

Flaxseed oil - 4 tsp

• Recipe number 2

Wax or paraffin - 1 tsp.

Flaxseed oil - 1 tsp or animal fat and castor oil (1:1).

Flaxseed oil can be replaced with melted animal (goose) fat. It is believed that waterfowl have the most suitable composition of body fat.

Suede and nubuck

Cream and wax for suede will not work. To protect this material from moisture, you need to use special impregnations in the form of a spray, which are made on the basis of waterproof emulsions.

Regardless of the type of material and method of processing, impregnation can only be done on dry and clean shoes 6 hours before going outside. If necessary, the procedure must be repeated regularly, since the water-repellent effect of the spray and wax is not endless.

So that the shoes are worn for a long time and do not get wet, impregnate new shoes with a protective substance. To do this, lubricate and treat them with a suitable agent several times at daily intervals. If the product has ceased to actively absorb the cream, oil or spray, it means that it has been soaked. After a little drying, you can safely go about your business.

Other materials

Purchased water-repellent products are not suitable for leather substitutes and fabrics, since artificial leather does not absorb fat, and it is simply stupid to treat light textile shoes with oil or cream. Although leatherette boots can still be saved.

If leatherette shoes let water through, then the sole is damaged or poorly sewn. You already know what to do in these cases: repair it yourself or take it to a workshop, and after repair you can wear it without risk to health.

How to process shoes so that they do not get wet

Protecting shoes from water with special means will extend the life of your boots and boots. Such sprays and creams can be bought at a shoe store. The most effective of them are I:

Proper shoe protection

To ensure maximum protection of shoes from getting wet, you need to correctly apply the appropriate product. . For this you need:

When choosing a cream for winter shoes, pay attention to the amount of fat contained in the composition of the product - they should be at least 40 percent.

• It is advisable to lubricate the shoes a day before using them.

Creams should be used for leather boots, sneakers and berets. Textiles, nubuck and suede are treated with aerosols.

How to make waterproof shoes at home

Water-repellent (hydrophobic) properties any protective cream is supported in it by the high content of wax and fat. And cheaply purchase or prepare such products at home is not difficult at all. There are some effective and simple recipes to help keep your shoes from getting wet.

Treat leather shoes and boots with petroleum jelly. To do this, you need to lubricate the entire surface of the shoe with this agent, and especially carefully soak all joints and seams.

You can prepare the following composition:

• Ghee mutton fat and linseed oil - equal proportions.
• Turpentine - 1/5 of the volume of fat and oil.

All components are mixed and a warm mixture is applied to the boots with a flannelette rag.

Use an effective water-repellent cream that you can prepare at home. To do this, you need to take wax (can be replaced with paraffin) and linseed oil in a ratio of three to one, respectively. Melt the wax, add linseed oil to it, rub the resulting mixture into shoes or boots.

For amplification protective properties rough skin, you can use castor oil. After the procedure of rubbing into the leather material, the shoes must be polished. To increase the water resistance of the product, animal fat can be added.

Beeswax is a great way to protect boots and boots from getting wet. If you add crushed rosin and turpentine to it, then you will get an effective water-repellent cream, which in its protective properties is not much different from factory analogues. To prepare this remedy you will need:

• Beeswax - 20 gr.
• Turpentine - 10 gr.
• Rosin - 50 gr.

Another good recipe from ingredients you already know:

• Turpentine - 30 gr.
• Beeswax - 10 gr.
• Liquid fish oil - 40 gr.
• Glycerin - 20 gr.

To prepare this shoe cream, you must successively mix turpentine, beeswax and fish oil. Melt the resulting mixture over low heat, and then add the glycerin. Warm cream is applied to leather shoes.

The following method is quite simple and does not require special abilities and improvised materials. Take a white candle and melt it. Spread warm paraffin in a dense layer over the entire surface of the boots or boots, carefully treating the butt joints and seams.

Then turn on the hair dryer and heat up the waxed shoes. Wax under the influence of temperature will begin to melt and fill invisible pores and small holes, which are the reason for water to enter the product.

Preventive measures

In order not to urgently resolve the issue of how to protect shoes from getting wet, you should take the necessary preventive measures immediately after purchase. In stores now you can find a lot of different special tools that differ in composition:

But before using this or that remedy, you need to know the features of applying a cream or spray:

If you stick to these professional advice, as well as use folk home methods, your feet will always be dry and warm, despite the vagaries of the weather.

Attention, only TODAY!

With the onset of wet weather, it is especially important to feel comfortable in autumn shoes: a little wet, cold, and a cold will immediately make itself felt. But even in summer, sloshing in shoes is no good, because even those who like to walk barefoot in the rain are unlikely to like having wet feet on an ongoing basis. What can be done to your shoes to protect them from moisture? It all depends on the type of material and the reason for getting wet.

If it's all about the sole

In search of moisture protection, we primarily turn our attention to leather or suede care products, without skimping on impregnations and wax creams. But what if the problem is not so much in the upper part of the boots, but in the sole? But it is she who is in direct contact with wet asphalt or damp earth, and it is her damage or poor quality that is the cause of your wet feet.

Agree, you rarely step into such deep puddles that the boot goes under the water to the very ankle, but if you still have such a sin, then it’s better to get a pair of rubber boots right now. The fact is that, stepping into a shallow puddle, you will very quickly feel the moisture on your feet, but at the same time, neither leather nor good quality suede can let water through so quickly. Most often, moisture gets inside not through the main material, but through poor-quality seams, poorly glued soles, or holes and cracks right at the bottom of your shoes.

• Poor-quality seams can be smeared and soaked with any water-repellent cream or spray, and animal fat, wax, paraffin or castor oil are suitable from folk remedies. True, this method will not help to get rid of the problem once and for all, and you will periodically have to update the protective layer.
• Poorly glued soles are more common on cheap leatherette shoes, but regardless of the base material, there is only one solution: tear off the sole and glue it, or better yet, stitch it again. Of course, not everyone has the skills of a shoemaker, and most likely you will have to carry shoes to the workshop, so consider whether this pair of shoes is worth the money and time spent on it.
• Cracks or holes in shoes can be oiled. Although, in order to get ahead of the problem, it is better to do this with still new boots. To do this, the sole needs to be lightly sanded to increase the adhesion of the material to the surface, apply drying oil and let it dry completely. A more drastic way to deal with a leaky sole is to install soles on top of your own sole.

Shoes from trusted brands are distinguished by high quality seams and soles, which means that you will have much less risk of coming home with wet socks in such shoes. In addition, well-known brands do not save on the primary impregnation of leather or nubuck, which is also an indisputable plus.

Leather and suede care

Although leather care and nubuck with a water-repellent slant has more aesthetic weight than practical, poor quality leather can actually let moisture through rather quickly, unlike tight leather made to order. And you don't want your leather or suede to soak up slush, getting covered with a disgusting coating of mud, even if your feet are completely dry. We tell you what needs to be done so that shoes even in autumn look chic and do not wear out.

• Leather

The shoe care market is flooded with water-repellent compounds for all materials, so they will be the easiest to use. For leather, spray impregnations can be used, but special waxes and creams are a more classic option. Just keep in mind that an emulsion cream will not protect against moisture: you need to choose a more expensive organic product with a high content of fat, wax and oils.

For leather, unlike suede, there are many folk remedies that can protect shoes from getting wet. The simplest is the treatment of skin and seams with castor oil instead of a cream, but mixtures can also be made: ½ tbsp. l. turpentine plus 4 tsp. linseed oil and fish oil; 1 tsp paraffin or wax plus 1 tsp. linseed oil or a 1:1 mixture of castor oil and animal fat.

In folk recipes, linseed oil can be replaced or supplemented with melted animal fat. It is believed that waterfowl fat is best suited.

• Suede and nubuck

Neither wax nor cream is suitable for suede, and the only way to protect it from moisture is to use special impregnations in the form of a spray, which are made on the basis of water-repellent emulsions.

Regardless of which treatment you have chosen and what material you are dealing with, impregnation can only be done on clean and dry shoes at least 6 hours before going outside. The procedure must be repeated regularly as needed, as the effect of wax and sprays is not endless.

In order to qualitatively impregnate new shoes with a protective substance, you can resort to repeated primary processing of shoes. To do this, shoes must be lubricated or treated with a suitable product 3 times at intervals per day before you start wearing them. You need to spray or apply oil or cream until the shoes stop actively absorbing them.

Caring for shoes made from other materials

If you are dealing with getting wet non-leather shoes, then no store-bought care is indispensable. The thing is that it is pointless to use oil or sprays on leatherette, since it does not absorb either water or fat, and on fabric it is simply stupid. It turns out that nothing can protect you from getting wet with fabric sneakers, but leatherette boots can still be saved.

We mentioned that leatherette itself does not absorb moisture, which means that the problem is most likely a poorly glued, badly sewn or damaged sole, which brings us back to the very first point of discussion. You already know what to do: take care of the sole, and the boots can be worn for a long time without the risk of getting your feet wet.

With these simple tools and methods of shoe care in your arsenal, you will no longer catch a cold due to an oversight of the shoe manufacturer and bad weather.

With the onset of slushy damp weather, during the rainy season, you want to provide your feet with maximum warmth and dryness. And if in the summer it is enough to properly dry the shoes caught in the rain, then in the off-season and in winter, this is not enough.

Waterproof shoes.

The lucky ones who managed to choose shoes so that they don’t get wet can read no further. For those who have an acute question so that their shoes do not get wet, here are our tips.

Why do shoes get wet.

There are several reasons why shoes get wet:

• peeled off, damaged shoe sole.
• poor-quality connection of the sole with a boot or boot (uneven, missed seams, the presence of holes and microcracks).
• poor quality product. This includes poor-quality material and violations in the production process of shoes.
• contact of footwear with chemical reagents. Sprinkling the streets with chemicals against icing is certainly a necessary thing. However, our shoes and boots suffer from this, and become deformed and begin to get wet.
• Initially, during the production process, the product was not treated with a special impregnation that makes the shoes waterproof.
• artificial leather and synthetic material do not withstand severe frosts, crack and lose moisture resistance.

Moisture-wicking outsole.

First of all, both when buying and when leaking, we pay attention to the sole. The cause of wet feet is often associated with poor quality or damage to the sole. It is unlikely that you walk through deep puddles. In order to get your feet wet in shoes with poor-quality or damaged soles, it is not necessary to stand ankle-deep in water for a long time. In most cases, shoes get wet not because of the base material, but because of problems with the sole. So we inspect the sole and take the following measures:

• if the sole is poorly glued, then it must either be re-glued or stitched. Since only a few shoemakers have talents, you will have to take the problematic product for stitching or gluing to a shoe shop.
• a sole with defects in the form of cracks or holes can be treated with drying oil. First, sand the sole a little, then apply drying oil and leave to dry. If you doubt your own abilities, you can install soles on your own sole in problem areas. Only this should be entrusted to the master.
• Seams of poor quality are smeared (impregnated) with any water-repellent cream or spray for waterproof shoes. There are folk remedies than to smear shoes so as not to get wet. But about them a little lower.

in order not to worry in the future, how to process the shoes so that they do not get wet, when purchasing boots or boots, pay special attention to checking the quality of the seams and soles.

How to impregnate shoes so that they do not get wet.

You can protect your boots or shoes with the help of special means to protect shoes from getting wet. Such creams and sprays are sold in any shoe store. Among the protective equipment, the most effective should be noted:

• Salamander Universal SMS. This spray for shoes, so as not to get wet, is designed for any material (leather, suede, textiles). It not only protects the boots from moisture and dirt, but also takes care of the appearance of the product.
• Eco. It belongs to the fast-acting sprays, since drying occurs in a matter of seconds. It differs in that when using it, the shoes become not only waterproof, but also remain breathable.
• salamander. A greasy cream designed to keep leather shoes from getting wet. It has high water-repellent properties, helps to restore shine, paints over scuffs, eliminates roughness. The cream contains natural wax.
• Collonil Nanopro. You will not find a better tool than to process nubuck shoes so that they do not get wet. It can also be successfully used to create the thinnest imperceptible, absolutely impenetrable and deep film on leather boots, velor ankle boots, textile boots.
• Kiwi AquaStop is designed not only for natural materials, but also for artificial leather.
• Rough leather boots or boots can be protected from moisture and salt with Grangers G-Wax impregnation cream.
• 100% protection is also provided by high-quality Swedish impregnation SMS Olvist. This is an excellent tool than to process suede shoes so that they do not get wet and do not warp.

How to treat shoes with protective store products so that they do not get wet.

Proper application, not just purchase, can protect your shoes from moisture absorption and keep your feet comfortable.

• before applying the protective agent, we clean the boots from dirt, wash and leave to dry completely.
• a single spray spray will not be enough. It is necessary to spray the product until the moment when the aerosol ceases to be absorbed into the material of the boots or boots.
• water-repellent creams are applied three times with a time interval between applications of one day. Only then will the cream begin to work.

when choosing a cream so that winter shoes do not get wet, pay attention to the percentage of fats that make up the product. It must be at least 40%.

• lubricate shoes so that they do not get wet, either a couple of hours before going outside. And it is better to carry out this procedure a day before the publication.

remember that for leather boots we use a cream, for suede, nubuck and textiles - an aerosol.

Waterproof footwear at home.

The point of any water-repellent cream is its high fat and wax content. Since the structure of suede will not tolerate the rough interference of fats and wax, so that suede shoes do not get wet, it is better not to wear them in rainy weather. But, if, nevertheless, you have no options, then only aerosols are suitable for this material.
For other materials, there are ways to process shoes at home so that they do not get wet.

before treating the shoes so that they do not get wet with home remedies, test on a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe boot or boot near the seam.

And now, in fact, the folk remedies themselves. To protect your boots / boots, we offer the means that you have on hand or those that you can easily and at no significant cost to purchase:

• medical vaseline. It has excellent water repellency. It is necessary to lubricate the entire surface of the shoe with petroleum jelly and especially carefully go through all the joints and seams.
• we prepare the composition of lamb fat, linseed oil and turpentine. We take oil and lard in equal proportions, and turpentine - 1/5 of the volume of oil and lard. Lamb fat should be melted first. Mix all the ingredients and apply a warm mixture to the boots. Use a soft, lint-free cloth to apply to your shoes.
• a proven homemade water-repellent cream is obtained from wax (you can replace with paraffin) and linseed oil in a 3: 1 ratio. Before waxing the shoes so that they do not get wet in the future, the wax should be melted. Add linseed oil to warm wax and rub the mixture into boots / boots.
• if you need to increase the protective properties of a rough leather product, then use castor oil. After rubbing the oil into the skin, be sure to polish the shoes. To enhance the water-repellent properties of castor oil, you can add any fat of animal origin.

Waterfowl oil has the best water-repellent properties.

• An excellent tool on how to make waterproof shoes with your own hands is beeswax. Add turpentine and crushed rosin to beeswax and you have a homemade water-repellent cream. For 20 grams of beeswax, you will need 10 grams of regular turpentine and 50 grams of rosin.
• another mixture of components already known to you includes 20 grams of glycerin, 40 grams of liquid fish oil, 30 grams of turpentine and 10 grams of beeswax. To prepare this cream, you need to successively mix fish oil, turpentine and beeswax. Melt these ingredients over low heat and only then add glycerin. Apply the cream on shoes in a warm form.
• and finally, a method that does not require special improvised materials and abilities. Take paraffin (melt a candle that is in your house, but not a colored one) and melt it. In a warm state, spread the paraffin over the entire surface of the shoe, carefully processing the seams and butt joints. The layer should be dense. Then turn on the hair dryer and heat the waxed boot or boot. Melting under the influence of temperature, the wax will begin to fill with itself small holes and invisible pores, which just cause water to enter the product.

Prepare your shoes for the rainy season ahead of time. And then the feet will always be dry and comfortable.

1. Drying shoes. Stuff shoes (boots) with newsprint to absorb excess moisture and leave to dry at room temperature. If the shoes are very wet, the newspaper can be changed several times.

2. If the shoes are dry, you can soften them by rubbing castor oil. Then polish the shoes.

3.A piece of leather torn from a shoe can be easily "grown". To do this, it is necessary to lubricate the damaged area and its back side with a thin layer of nail polish or BF-2 glue and press the treated area strongly with your finger for several minutes.

4. Bad smell shoes can be eliminated if you wash it with a solution of potassium permanganate (5-6 crystals per liter of water) and wipe it with hydrogen peroxide.

5. If the metal tips on your shoe laces have come off, dip their ends in nail polish. They will harden and will be easily threaded into the holes.

6. if you grease it several times along the seams with linseed oil.

7. If the suede is shiny, try applying a gruel of potato flour and gasoline. After this, clean water, and then a weak vinegar solution.

8. Drying shoes. If you need to dry your shoes urgently, you can use a vacuum cleaner. The air from the chimney is warm enough to dry the boot.

9. If the shoes are dry, you can soften them by rubbing vegetable oil. Then polish the shoes.

10., smoking it over a burning candle.

11. Close shoes can be stretched by stuffing it with damp newsprint.

12. If shoes creak, rub a few drops of vegetable or castor oil on the sole and let the shoes dry.

13. Spread the shoe won't fall off from the leg, if a strip of velvet or foam rubber 5-6 mm thick is glued to the inner surface of the backdrop.

14. Lost light shoes can be dyed black by rubbing them with a cut raw potato, then smearing them with black cream and brushing them to a shine.

15. To, its top should be wiped with castor oil from time to time.

16. Suede shoes can be cleaned rough surface of a matchbox.

17. Break in new shoes you can do it in such a simple way: to do this, moisten the shoes from the inside with cologne, immediately put them on your leg (preferably on woolen socks, as they are thicker), and then slightly moisten them with cologne on top.

18. If the shoes creak, you can soak the sole with hot natural drying oil.

19. It happens that new shoes start to "burn" leg. This problem is solved with the help of 3% vinegar, which is rubbed into the shoes from the inside.

20. New shoes stain stockings, its inner surface must be treated with talc.

21. If the shoes are tight in a particular place, it should be dripped with heated wax and pulled over the block for several days. The desired place will stretch noticeably.

22. If patent leather shoes have lost their luster, then it can be cured with Vaseline. After Vaseline, it is recommended to wipe the shoes with velvet.

23. Turned out to be without problems displayed with gasoline.

24. For shoe disinfection formalin is used: the shoes are wiped inside with a cloth moistened with formalin, and placed in a plastic bag, tied and left for a day. Then the shoes are taken out and aired.

25. If the shoes are dry, you can soften it by rubbing in glycerin. Then polish the shoes. Such shoe care will prevent cracking of shoes.

26. Suede shoes clean well, if you hold it over the steam.

27. To keep shoes from getting wet, you can treat it with the following solution: dissolve 40 g of fish oil, 10 parts of wax, 3 parts of turpentine in a water bath. Apply the cream in liquid form.

28. Shrunken sports shoes can be kept in warm water until the skin becomes soft. Then you need to wipe it inside and out, dry it, grease it with glycerin and stuff it tightly with newsprint.

29. Suede shoes can be cleaned a crust of stale bread.

30. Caught on your suede shoes are greasy can be removed as follows: sprinkle the stain with talcum powder and leave for several hours.

31. white shoes with textile top refresh with tooth powder and water

32. shoe brushes useful rinse with water with the addition of ammonia.

33. If there are stains on colored shoes they can be removed with a cloth soaked in lemon juice.

34. Suede shoes can be cleaned sandpaper (carefully)

35. To patent leather shoes are better preserved, its top should be wiped with milk from time to time.

36. Brown leather shoes clean well coffee grounds.

37. To wet leather shoes do not harden, rub them, after they dry, with petroleum jelly, and after a few hours clean them as usual.

38. If spots have formed on the skin, wipe them with table vinegar.

39. White shoes keep their color if brushed regularly with a mixture of milk (half a cup) and one beaten egg white.

40. So that patent leather shoes do not warp it must sometimes be lubricated with glycerin.

41. The sole and seams will not let moisture through, if they are smeared with a mixture of equal parts of wax and lamb fat.

42. Work boots can wipe several times with paraffin dissolved in gasoline.

43. Shoes can be made waterproof, if you lubricate it several times along the seams with castor oil.

44. Patent shoes are washed with a cloth dampened with milk, and when they are dry, wipe with half an onion and polish with a soft woolen cloth.

45. Black suede shoes are refreshed by wiping with carbon paper.

46. Suede shoes can be cleaned regular pencil or ink eraser.

47. "People's cream" Boots can be smeared with a piece of unsalted pork fat. And forward, in bad weather! Protection against water is very good, in cold weather lard is also suitable as an emollient.

48. White shoes with textile horseback refresh with chalk and water

49. Valenki and felt boots, if they are very dirty, you can wash them (but they can sit down), and after drying, clean them with pumice stone or fine-grained sandpaper. After drying, the remaining stains are removed with a slightly damp cloth.

50. colored boots plastic is good to clean with petroleum jelly: they shine, do not burst and do not crack.

51. Boots 'grow up" , if you put a strong plastic bag with water in them and place them in the freezer overnight. For 10 volume parts of water, 11 parts of ice are obtained, and they will help increase the size of your shoes.

52. If you smear pre-wetted shoes with kerosene, it will become softer.

53. Boots with long tops It is recommended to store hanging on clothespins.

54. If shoes are very wet, you need to fill it with dry hay

55. Yellow, brown or red leather shoes Remove stains with soap and cold water.

56. Grease stains on leather bouvie remove with soda solution (a teaspoon of soda in half a glass of water). Rub until foam forms, then remove it with a dry soft cloth.

57. White leather shoes are best washed foam sponge or soft brush dipped in a warm solution of washing powder. Rinse off the solution with warm water and dry your shoes.

58. If the suede is shiny, try removing the shine with a cloth soaked in hot water.

59. If the shoes crush the heel, then you can soak the rag in the shoe and in the freezer. The rag freezes and stretches the shoes.

60. Wash shoes with textile uppers in soapy water with a little ammonia (a teaspoon per glass of water), then wipe with a cloth dampened with clean water.

61. Ski boots lubricate ointment prepared from a mixture of 3 tbsp. spoons of fish oil and 1 spoon of castor oil. The ointment can be warmed up a little, then it is better absorbed into the skin.

62. "People's Cream" Melt beeswax in a water bath, add turpentine and castor oil. Thoroughly rub the resulting ointment into shoes - long-term shine and protection against water are guaranteed.

63. If the leather outsole is water-permeable, it must be lubricated with warm drying oil until the sole is saturated with it and will no longer absorb it. Drying oil, in addition, lengthens the life of the outsole.

64. Before putting down patent leather shoes for long-term storage, should be lightly rubbed with castor oil or pure glycerin.

65. Grease stains on leather shoes removed with soda solution (1 teaspoon of soda per glass of water). Rub until foam forms, then remove it with a dry soft cloth.

66. Wash the insoles and periodically treat the shoes from the inside with a solution of potassium permanganate

67. To keep shoes from slipping on the sole of the shoe cleaned and wiped with acetone, you can apply Moment glue from a tube in the form of a snake, and sprinkle coarse sand on the freshly applied glue and let the shoes dry for a day. Periodically, this procedure must be repeated.

68. Suede absorbs water well and, after drying, retains its former properties, but it can harden somewhat from repeated wetting. In this case, it must be washed in the hands, in different directions, and it will again become soft.

69. If the suede is very hard, it must be soaked in a cold soapy solution, folded and left for 6-8 hours. After that, rinse in water, to which you need to add a little ammonia.

70. Upgrade Suede Gloves can be as follows: prepare the mixture by adding half a teaspoon of baking soda or the same amount of 10% ammonia to half a glass of skimmed milk. Put gloves on your hands and, moistening a cotton swab with the prepared mixture, wipe the contaminated area with it.

71. To be tough the heels of the new shoes rubbed the foot less, wipe them with a candle.

72. Shoes can save you from smell regular baking soda. You just pour baking soda into your shoes, and then - after a night, let's say - shake it out or suck it out with a vacuum cleaner. The only problem is that if this is done with black leather shoes, then whitish stains may appear on it later. So it's best to do soda cleaning with light-colored sneakers.

73. Shoes can be stretched, pouring vodka into shoes, and then walking around in it, putting on a woolen sock

74. If the shoes are tight in a particular place, it should be dripped with paraffin and pulled over the block for several days. The desired place will stretch noticeably.

75. If the shoes are dry You can soften it by rubbing Vaseline. Then polish the shoes. Such shoe care will prevent cracking of shoes.

76. From excessive cream, shoes (this does not apply to patent leather shoes) should be cleaned at least once a week with a rag soaked in gasoline.

77. Hydrogen peroxide will help get rid of bad smell- Wipe the inside of the shoes.

78. Keep patent leather shoes best of all in covers from old stockings.

79. leather shoes should be washed with a soft cloth and soap.

80. Worn patent leather shoes will shine as good as new if brushed with egg white

81. Heavily soiled suede shoes cleans well with soapy water with a few drops of ammonia

82. Clean and bleach white suede you can use a mixture of a glass of warm water, adding a teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia to it

83. To get rid of stains and clean pores from excessive cream, shoes (this does not apply to patent leather shoes) should be cleaned at least once a week with turpentine.

84. Stains on colored shoes well cleaned with half an onion.

85. If the heel presses- you can tap gently with a hammer on the back of the shoe.

86. To hard backs of new shoes rub your foot less, wipe them with damp soap.

87. Stains on white leather shoes can be removed with a soft rubber band.

88. dried cream for shoes can be restored by adding a few drops of turpentine to it and gently heating it.

89. To your boots do not slip into ice, rub their leather soles with coarse sandpaper or raw potatoes, and apply a relief pattern to the plastic one with any well-heated metal rod.

90. If shoes color stockings, you need to wet a piece of cotton wool with alcohol and wipe the lining with this swab several times.

91. Wash sneakers best by hand, in soapy water

92. Faux leather shoes can be cleaned with a damp cloth.

93. Dirt from soles and heels can be removed with a damp flannel cloth.

94. In rubber shoes it is recommended to put in an insole made of cloth or flannel so that the feet are dry and warm.

95. On soft natural leather fatty stains can be removed with a solution of oxalic acid. After that, the place of the former stain is treated with a piece of dry cloth and, if necessary, tinted with the appropriate dye.

96. Thoroughly washed with warm water shoes are recommended to be impregnated the following composition: pure fish oil is mixed with lard (in a ratio of 3:1). This potion is brewed until the ingredients are mixed. The cooled mixture is impregnated with raw skin and rubbed with a cloth. Then the second composition is prepared: 1/3 of a piece of laundry soap is heated in 1/3 cup of water until the soap is completely dissolved. The cooled mixture is covered with shoes lubricated with the first composition.

97. To give shoes a brilliant shine you can use a mixture made from one egg white, milk in the same volume and a lump of sugar. These ingredients are whipped until a foam is obtained, applied with a sponge to the surface of the skin and left to dry. After that, wipe the shoes with a cloth or woolen rag.

98. Shoes made of thick rough leather can be lubricated with grease, after wiping the dirt with a damp cloth.

99. Heavily polluted white shoes clean with gasoline, to which a little powder of magnesia is added.

100. Heavily soiled suede shoes clean with a brush dipped in warm soapy water. Ammonia is first added to the water in a ratio of 1: 5 (one part of alcohol to five parts of water). Then they are washed with cold, slightly acidified water (a teaspoon of vinegar is added to a liter of water).

101. If broken piece on shoe skin, and there is no glue at hand, then you can use nail polish by applying it to a previously dried surface.

and only one to forget about him - HATCH!

Do you know the easiest way to get sick in spring or summer? Enough to get your feet wet! Remember how many times you, instead of enjoying the warmth, wiped your nose and washed down the pills? This fate befalls me every year. But this time I am determined to stay healthy. I am sure you are not going to come down with a temperature either, and even more so you do not want your children to catch a cold. Let's make our shoes waterproof for this!

After a way was found not to slip into ice, I decided not to stop and protect my boots from moisture penetration. Since friends and colleagues became interested in my experiments, I had to look for ways that would be suitable for their shoes. After all, it is necessary to save boots from moisture, depending on the material that was used in its tailoring.

Having studied a bunch of sources, I concluded that it does not matter if you have new shoes or old ones. Both, unfortunately, get wet. The only difference is that cheaper boots get wet faster due to poor-quality seams and the lack of special impregnation.

The ways to protect shoes from moisture, which I will now discuss, should first be tested on a small and inconspicuous area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe material. Boots made of natural materials are of little concern, but owners of leatherette shoes should take precautions.

I'll start with the most elementary - store-bought protection for shoes. Everything is very simple here. If you have leather shoes, waxing and creaming will suit you. Wax has no smell, and the coloring pigment that is added to it allows you to cover up scratches. The main disadvantage of the remedy is the short-term effect. You will have to lubricate the shoes before each exit to the street, for which, you see, there is not always time.

In addition to wax, shoe stores may offer special water-repellent creams. They are divided into two types: emulsion and organic. Emulsion, with the addition of various chemicals, should be used in the warm season, so that if moisture gets on the shoes, the skin does not crack from direct sunlight.

You can easily recognize organic shoe polish by its characteristic smell. It contains organic fats, oils and wax, which create a special film and protect our shoes from moisture.

For suede shoes, you can easily find water-repellent sprays and aerosols in specialty stores. When buying such a product, pay attention to the label. The composition must necessarily contain substances such as photocarbon resins and propane-butane. It is they who do not allow moisture to penetrate into suede or nubuck shoes.

In my experience, cheap store-bought products don't work or are too short-lived. And not everyone can afford to buy expensive water-repellent sprays or creams for all family members. Therefore, I offer you some effective folk recipes that have been tested by me and my family.

To prepare a homemade water-repellent for leather and leatherette shoes, you will need: 4 teaspoons of castor oil, 4 - linseed oil and 2 tsp. grated paraffin (you can rub a regular paraffin candle). All components should be thoroughly mixed and melted in a water bath. Pour the prepared mixture into a glass container and keep it away from children so that they do not spill it.

Before applying the product to shoes, be sure to dry it and clean it of dirt. Then use a hair dryer to direct a jet of warm air onto the boots. When their surface warms up a little, using a regular sponge or cotton pads, apply homemade ointment. It is better to do this in the evening, 6-8 hours before leaving the house, so that the product has time to be absorbed.

The second tool is great for men, as you do not have to bother with its preparation. It will take only 100 milliliters of refined gasoline (it is easy to buy at a hardware store) and a teaspoon of grated paraffin. Stir the ingredients thoroughly until the chips are completely dissolved.

The disadvantage of the product is that it is not suitable for smokers, but the big plus is that the protective film that it forms will repel not only water, but also dirt. If dust or dirt gets on the shoes, it will be enough to wipe them with a napkin - and the shoes are like new!

Note! Prepared products protect only the surface of the material from which your shoes are made. Water-repellent ointment will not save cracked seams or fabric inserts.

If your kids don't like to get around puddles and you're sure any water repellent won't help, then you should purchase a dedicated shoe dryer and a spare pair of boots. Otherwise, the child risks not only putting on wet shoes and catching a cold, but also catching a fungus, and then infecting all family members with it.

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